Day 11: Central Armed Forces Museum

We’d knocked out the “big” tourist attractions on the first day in Moscow – that is, the tourist attractions that you almost have to see to call it a visit to Moscow.  Red Square, the Kremlin, and Lenin’s Tomb.  Our second day in Moscow took on a considerably different tone, reflecting the realities of family travel, differing time schedules, and varying interests.  Dad and I left early (that is, around 9 AM) to spend the morning at the Central Armed Forces Museum.  Lance and family stayed back at the Hostel for a more relaxed start and would link up with us at the museum later in the day.

Of note, the nearest metro stop is the Dostoevskaya station, named after famous Russian author Fyodor Dostoevsky since he was born in 1821 somewhere near the station.  Now, I have a special place in my heart for Dostoevsky for two reasons: first, my high school English teacher Ms. Callaghan introduced us to his novel “Crime and Punishment” and second, the reason I’ve re-read the book twice since then is because the story was forever immortalized in my mind after we did an over-the-top video production on the novel.  But I digress… anyways, the book is awesome, Dostoevsky is awesome, and by association, his subway station is awesome!  On to the museum!

Dostoevsky is watching you… and if this was a James Bond movie the eyes would have cameras behind them.	Each of Dostoevsky’s four great works are depicted on separate columns.  This one is Crime and Punishment.

This museum covers the Russian Armed Forces from World War II through the present and covers a broader scope than the mostly Army-focused memorials and museums found elsewhere (most notably the Great Patriotic War Museum – skip ahead two days for that). 

Their World War II displays are good, though there are very few English signs so it helps to have a good understanding of the historical background of the Great Patriotic War (Eastern Front in WWII) to put the displays and artifacts in context.

“Defend the city of Lenin!”	“Destroy the Fascists on land and at sea!”
Example of a partisan base camp.  The Soviets made extensive use of partisans during World War II to disrupt German supply lines and rear areas.  The heavy-handed German rule of occupied territories significantly contributed to the partisan movement.	Model of a Josef Stalin 2 heavy tank (IS-2), the Soviet answer to the German Tiger I, mounting a 122mm main gun (the largest gun mounted on a tank until the Soviet 125mm gun in the 60s) and heavy armor.  The display in the background covers the “liberation” of Eastern Europe in 1945.

The World War II section only comprises about half of the museum galleries.  The other sections have displays ranging from the Russian fleet and RBU anti-submarine mortars to surface to air missiles and the wreckage of Gary Powers’ U-2 (shot down in 1960 when overflying the Soviet Union.  The pilot was captured alive and it proved to be a major diplomatic embarrassment for the US).

The remains of Gary Powers’ U-2.  The SA-2 missile, the type that shot down his aircraft, is displayed above.

After Lance and his family arrived, we went outside to see their equipment park.  It is a hodgepodge of everything from aircraft and artillery pieces to tanks and personnel carriers, though it’s hard to find such a wide variety of equipment in one location.

Once a Redleg, always a Redleg!  Dad examines a 2S3 152mm self-propelled artillery piece up close.  “So this is what we would have been shooting counterbattery at…”

Likewise the tankers gravitate to the tanks.  Here we are pointing at a T-10 heavy tank, with a T-64 and T-80 behind it.  Armored fighting vehicle identification takes on a new meaning when you’re only five meters away.

A Mi-24 Hind gunship.  In typical Russian fashion it’s an interesting amalgam of capabilities.  It has the armament of a gunship (cannon, unguided rockets, and anti-tank missiles), yet it also has the capability to transport up to eight men.	Don’t ask me how, but the Russians have a US Army Pershing tactical nuclear missile out back.

After seeing the equipment park, Dad and I left to get some lunch and decided to link up with Lance at the State History Museum in the afternoon.  Overall, the Central Armed Forces Museum was a good stop and serving as a build-up to the specialized (and mostly bi-lingual) Great Patriotic War Museum at Park Povedy.  Oh yes, one more thing: the gift shop at this museum is nothing to write home about.  Park Povedy has a much, much better selection.